Three Trailblazers and a Ribbon of Singletrack

Every good trail has a story tucked into its name, and the JEM Trail wears its on its sleeve. The letters stand for John, Ellen, and Mike, the three trailblazers credited with laying out the route across the black-brush desert southeast of Hurricane. That is the kind of tidbit locals trade and tourists never hear: this world-famous ribbon of dirt is named for three real people, not some mining claim or cattle brand.

As trails go, JEM is the friendly one, and that is exactly why it is beloved. It runs roughly 7 miles from the upper trailhead off State Route 59 down toward the Virgin River, shedding around 800 feet of elevation along the way. The character is flowy intermediate singletrack, what riders call high-speed desert cruising, mostly smooth tread with a few chunkier rock sections to keep you honest. There is exactly one notorious spot, the JEM drop, a steep tangle of rock and switchbacks well over a hundred feet long. It has thrown plenty of riders, and there is no shame in walking it. The rest of the trail practically rides itself.

JEM rarely rides alone, though. It is the star of a much larger web called the Hurricane Cliffs Trail System, and its two most famous partners are the Hurricane Rim Trail and the Gould's Rim Trail. Hurricane Rim is the tougher sibling, about 7.5 miles of twisting, dipping singletrack rated upper-intermediate to early-expert, with roughly a mile of chunky rock slabs that will punish a hardtail and a careless line. Gould's Rim is the mellow one, around 3 miles of easy flowing tread rolling through the desert hills, more moderate than technical. String them together and you get the classic day out.

The Loop System: Shuttle It or Earn It

Here is where a little planning pays off. JEM by itself is largely downhill, and in recent years the Bureau of Land Management made portions of it one-way: the upper 2.1 miles went downhill-only back in 2015, and the lower 1.8 miles followed in 2022. That is worth knowing before you set out, because it shapes how you ride the area. Plenty of folks simply shuttle JEM, leaving a vehicle at the lower Sheep Bridge Road trailhead and starting high, for a fast, mostly-descending run.

The purists earn it instead. Link JEM, Hurricane Rim, and Gould's Rim into the celebrated Hurricane Rim Loop and you are looking at roughly 21 miles of nearly all singletrack with somewhere north of 1,300 feet of climbing. It is the kind of loop that gives you easy climbs, fast descents, and one jaw-dropping vista after another, which is precisely why it carries an IMBA Epic designation, the mountain-biking equivalent of a gold star for a genuinely great, sustained backcountry ride. Most riders run it from the Sheep Bridge trailhead near Virgin, but the system is flexible. Numerous access points line State Route 59 and Sheep Bridge Road, so you can bite off a two-hour sampler or a half-day epic from the same stretch of desert.

A gentle reality check: this is high-desert riding, not a manicured bike park. The tread is real dirt and rock, the sun is unfiltered, and once you are on the rim you are a long way from a water fountain. Come prepared and it is pure joy.

The Setting: A Rim Above the River

The reason people drive across the country for these trails is not the JEM drop or the mileage. It is the edge. For long stretches, the trail hugs the rim of the Virgin River gorge, and near the bottom of JEM the singletrack runs unnervingly close to a tall cliff with the river winding far below. It is the sort of drop-away that makes a first-timer's palms sweat and a regular grin like a kid. You are pedaling smooth dirt one moment and peering into a carved chasm the next.

The panorama is enormous. From the rim you look out over deeply cut drainages and desert mesas, and on a clear day the pale sandstone towers of Zion National Park stand up on the eastern horizon. Hurricane Rim in particular leans into the drama, tracing the deep canyon walls east of town. This whole shelf of country sits on Bureau of Land Management ground, administered out of the St. George Field Office, which is why it stays open, undeveloped, and refreshingly free of gates and turnstiles.

It is worth remembering that the Virgin River below is the same hardworking stream that built this valley. The pioneers who settled Hurricane spent years hand-cutting a canal through these very cliffs to coax that water onto the bench for their orchards. You are riding the rim of the same gorge they fought, only now the reward is a view instead of a crop.

How Hurricane Became a Mountain-Bike Town

Forty-odd years of watching this valley, and the mountain-bike boom is one of the more surprising chapters. For most of its history Hurricane was a farm town, all peaches and cattle and a canal folks were rightly proud of. Then the fat-tire crowd discovered that the shelf of BLM desert between Hurricane, La Verkin, and Gooseberry Mesa was practically purpose-built for riding: firm dirt, mild grades, a long season, and cliffs for scenery.

The trails came in waves. JEM and Hurricane Rim have review threads going back to the early 2000s, which in trail terms makes them old-timers, and the network kept growing until today the Hurricane Cliffs Trail System counts close to 40 miles of beginner and intermediate singletrack. Sitting right next door to the legendary slickrock of Gooseberry Mesa, the area became a natural anchor for Southern Utah's riding scene, and the IMBA Epic nod on the Hurricane Rim Loop cemented its reputation nationally.

The happy result is a town that quietly reinvented itself. The same warm, dry climate that made Hurricane a fruit basket also made it a place you can ride comfortably from fall clear through spring, and that has drawn a steady stream of visitors who came for a weekend and started looking at real estate. Not bad for a patch of black-brush desert a few folks named after themselves.

A Local's Playbook

Season first, because it matters most. This is exposed desert with almost no shade, so the sweet spot is roughly fall through spring, say October into May, with the shoulder months being close to perfect. Summer is a different animal entirely. Midday temperatures on that rim routinely push past 100 degrees, and every year someone underestimates it. If you must ride in the warm months, go at first light, turn around early, and carry far more water than feels reasonable. There are no springs, no shade, and no cell-tower guarantees out on the rim.

Mind the access roads. Several trailheads, including the Gould's Rim approach off the Gould Wash gravel road and the lower Sheep Bridge Road, are dirt-and-gravel affairs that reward a high-clearance vehicle and punish a low sedan after a storm. Check conditions, and do not follow a GPS pin blindly onto a washed-out two-track. The main upper JEM trailhead sits about 5 miles south of Hurricane off State Route 59 and is the easiest to reach.

Respect the one-way rules and the cliff. Ride JEM in the intended downhill direction, walk the JEM drop if it looks like more than you signed up for, and give that river-gorge edge a wide, sober berth, especially with kids or dogs. Finally, stay on the tread. That crusty black soil between the trails is living cryptobiotic crust that takes decades to form, and a single boot or tire print can undo a generation of it. Ride the line and this stretch of desert will give you one of the best days on a bike in the state.

Nearby — make it a loop

The JEM system sits at the heart of a very full itinerary. The most natural pairing is the Hurricane Canal Trail, which threads the same set of cliffs above the same Virgin River gorge; it follows the astonishing hand-dug pioneer canal and gives you the human-history version of the view you just rode. After a dusty morning on the rim, most riders point the truck toward water, and Hurricane has two of the best: Sand Hollow State Park, where warm blue water laps against orange sandstone and the off-road and recreation crowd gathers around Sand Mountain, and cooler, deeper Quail Creek State Park tucked into the lava hills beyond.

If you have wheels left in your legs, drop down and get the gorge from below. There is easygoing Virgin River access up in the town of Virgin, near where the loop's Sheep Bridge trailhead sits, for a cold soak of tired feet. And a short hop northwest in La Verkin, wander over to Confluence Park, where the Virgin River and Ash Creek meet, and find the old lava-canyon footbridge locals cheerfully nicknamed "Octopussy" after the James Bond film once shot in the area. It is the kind of oddball corner that rewards the traveler willing to poke around a little, which, if you have made it out to JEM in the first place, you clearly are.